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Professional floor sanding is a careful process that takes a timber floor from worn, marked and uneven to smooth, clean and ready for years of use. Below is how we approach the job from the initial checks through to the final coat of lacquer.

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Checking and Preparing the Floor

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Before any sanding begins, we check the general structural integrity of the floor.

The vast majority of floors — around 99% — are perfectly suitable for sanding as they are. Occasionally, a damaged board may need replacing and, very rarely, a joist or support beneath the floor may require attention before work can continue.

We also check the surface for any proud nails and carefully set these flush with the floor.

With modern Bona sanding equipment, it is no longer necessary to routinely countersink every nail below the surface. Allowing the nails to finish naturally level with the timber often produces a neater and more authentic appearance, particularly on older pine floors.

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The First Sanding Pass

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The first sanding pass is normally carried out using a coarse-grade sanding belt.

Rather than sanding immediately in a straight line with the boards, the machine is usually worked at a slight angle. This allows the abrasive to cut more effectively across the grain and helps remove old finishes, surface damage and uneven areas.

Further passes are then made using progressively finer grades of abrasive until the floor reaches approximately 120 grit.

Each stage removes the sanding marks created by the previous grit and gradually produces a finer and more even surface.

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Sanding the Edges and Corners

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The main floor sanding machine cannot reach tight against walls, skirting boards and into corners, so these areas are treated separately.

A powerful rotary edging machine is used around the perimeter of the room, again working through the necessary grades of abrasive.

Corners and other areas the edger cannot reach are finished by hand using a scraper and a small delta sanding machine.

The aim is to make all areas of the floor blend together evenly rather than leaving obvious differences between the centre, edges and corners.

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Final Fine Sanding

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Once the belt sanding and edging are complete, the entire floor receives a final fine sanding using a Bona rotary buffer fitted with a fine abrasive pad.

This stage smooths the timber and removes any faint transition marks left where the different sanding machines have been used.

The result is an even, finely prepared surface ready for finishing.

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Virtually Dust-Free Sanding

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Modern professional floor sanding is a very different process from the dusty sanding many people remember.

Our Bona sanding equipment uses powerful dust extraction throughout the sanding process, making the work virtually dust-free.

Once the sanding bag reaches approximately one-third full, it is removed and emptied outside into a separate waste bag ready for disposal.

We take great care throughout the job and guarantee no mess is left behind.

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Filling Gaps Between Floorboards

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Gap filling is not always necessary and is normally discussed separately depending on the condition and style of the floor.

Traditional joint filler can be used if requested and can be included within the estimate. However, it is not always the best long-term solution for older timber floors.

Floorboards naturally move slightly with changes in temperature and humidity. Joint filler dries relatively hard and brittle, and over time it can separate from the edges of the boards, leaving an uneven-looking gap.

For traditional pine floors, a much better option is often reclaimed pine slivers.

These are metre-long, wedge-shaped pieces of reclaimed pine that are glued and firmly tapped into the gaps with a mallet. Once secure, they are trimmed and sanded flush with the surrounding floor.

Because the repair is made from real timber, it provides a much more stable and natural-looking result.

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Optional Floor Staining

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If a customer would like the floor stained, this stage takes place after all sanding is complete but before the sealing and lacquering process begins.

Because the stains we use are water based, the timber first needs to be prepared to prevent the grain from becoming rough after the stain is applied.

The finished floor is lightly dampened with water, which deliberately raises or “furs” the grain.

Once completely dry, the floor is lightly sanded again. This removes the raised fibres so that when the water-based stain is subsequently applied, the surface remains smooth.

The stain is mixed on site to achieve the shade required by the customer.

Once the stain is dry, the floor continues through exactly the same sealing and lacquering process as an unstained floor.

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Sealing the Timber

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After the final sanding — or staining where required — the entire floor is thoroughly vacuumed clean.

An isolating coat of Morrells sealer is then applied.

The sealer helps enhance the natural grain and develops the figure and character of the timber. It is applied using a floor polish applicator, working carefully with the grain of the wood to achieve an even finish.

Once the sealer has dried, the floor is ready for lacquer.

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Applying the Lacquer

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The first coat of lacquer is applied using a medium-pile roller.

Correct coverage is important. Too little lacquer can leave an uneven finish, while too much can affect drying and flow.

Experience plays a large part here, and we use both sight and sound while applying the lacquer.

The sound of the roller actually gives a useful indication of how much lacquer is being applied. A dry, sharper sound generally indicates that there is too little lacquer on the floor, while a noticeably softer rolling sound indicates that the recommended coverage and flow are being achieved.

It is a small detail, but one that comes from many years of working with timber floors.

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Light Sanding Between Coats

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Once the first coat of lacquer has dried, the floor is very lightly sanded.

This removes any final traces of raised grain and leaves the surface perfectly smooth.

The floor is then thoroughly vacuumed and tack-cleaned before the remaining two coats of lacquer are applied in the same careful manner.

The complete finishing system therefore consists of:

One isolating/sealer coat followed by three coats of lacquer.

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Drying Times

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In ideal conditions, each coat normally takes approximately one hour before the next coat can be applied.

After the final coat:

The floor is normally ready for light foot traffic after approximately two hours.

Furniture can generally be replaced the following day.

Large rugs should ideally be left off the floor for approximately three days.

Replacing large rugs too soon can slow the curing process by preventing the finish underneath from breathing properly.

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The Finished Floor

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The objective throughout the whole process is not simply to remove the old surface.

Every sanding stage, abrasive grade and finishing coat contributes towards producing a floor that is smooth and even while retaining the natural character of the timber beneath.

Particularly with older pine floors, we aim to restore the floor rather than make it look artificially new — preserving the features that give an original timber floor its character while creating a clean, durable and practical finish.